February 2018
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We need your help!!

We are in search of enthusiastic members who are willing to donate some of their time and energy to help us spread the good news about bees and all things bee related. We are in specific need of folks who are willing to write articles for the local papers and / or provide nice high resolution photos of their bees doing ‘bee things.’ We also need help spreading the good word about bees at the many local events (McDonalds Nursery Outdoor Show, Hampton Master Gardeners plant sales at Bluebird Gap Farm for example) that the CBA attends.

If you want to write, but don’t know what to write, we can give you a topic. If you already have an idea about which you want to write, or want to provide some ideas for topics, we’ll gladly go over it with you. Articles will be non-technical and written with the average lay person in mind. Any/all articles will be reviewed and edited prior to submission.

Here is the overview of what is required for an article:

* The column should be between 450-600 words, written for lay people, and include a photo that you either have rights to or permission to use. If it is not your photo, be sure to include who gets credit and that we have permission to use it. I cannot overstate this enough. The paper is very squirrelly about this.

* The photo should be high resolution (smart phone photos are good enough) and in jpg format. We need nice close ups of bees doing bee things!! The paper has no good stock photos from which to pull.

* A byline is included – 1 line biography of whatever you want to say about yourself, so be sure to include that. Or I get to make it up!

Please contact:

Carolyn Kutzer-Lovedahl at 757-435-0797 or at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. (put ‘bee club/articles’ in the subject line) with your ideas/suggestions,


Sue & Jim Webb at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. for questions regarding volunteering at events

Picture taken by Wendy at Pete's yard

Here are some ideas for articles –
(If you want to do one of these, tell me so I can let you know if it still available and put your name on it. Or if you have another idea, tell me that, too, so I can keep track.)

  • -how to behave around bees
  • -kids and bees- (personal experiences)
  • - a beekeepers year (by season)
  • -what’s it take to make that jar of honey from the bee’s perspective – this one and the next one could be a two part article--
  • -what’s it take to make that jar of honey from the beekeeper’s perspective/ honey extraction
  • -life lessons learned from honey bees
  • -normal reaction vs. allergic reaction to bee stings – Linda, this one is yours
  • - honey and why it is good for allergies
  • - ***swarming*** – what it is, when does it happen, who to call, etc. - THIS SHOULD BE THE VERY NEXT ONE TO GO OUT, I THINK**** I would like to see one of you folks who have taken swarm calls put this one together, please!*****
  • - most valuable plants for bees- a 4 season review – this probably would be better broken down into several articles.
  • - most valuable perennials for bees/ other pollinators
  • -most valuable trees for bees/ other pollinators
  • -most valuable bulbs/annuals for bees/ other pollinators
  • -pesticides and bees/ pollinators – there are a multitude of ways to go with this one
  • -good bugs versus bad bugs
  • -how bees see/ native plants/ favorite colors
  • -why native plants are better for our bees (and other pollinators)
  • -summary of websites with helpful info re pollinators/ bees
  • -difference between honey bees, native bees, wasps, yellow jackets –looks, behavior, where/how they live
  • -what does bee pasture/ bee forage mean
  • - different qualities of pollen/ nectar for bees – bee nutrition!
  • -how bees communicate
  • -fun facts about bees
  • -Colony Collapse Disorder

These are a some of the ideas I have had/ been suggested. It’s a good start but still a relatively short list.
Thanks again for your ideas and input! I will keep you posted as things progress.



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February Meetings
and Events

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February 3rd
Queen Rearing Class


February 20th
Monthly Meeting


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March Meetings
and Events

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March 3rd
Horticultural Extravaganza


March 8th
HR Horticultural Society


March 20th
Monthly Meeting


March 24th
CNU Gardening Symposium




Follow the "Upcoming Events" or "Latest News" link under the Main Menu for more information.




NewBees Corner


Information listed here is for the new beekeepers looking for new information and guidance on beekeeping and beekeeping chores:




Now is the time to be watching the 10 day weather forecasts! Plan on making up some fresh, warm, syrup to feed to your survivors this next week. You need to feed in winter but winter feeding is different. Mix your syrup 2:1 (2 sugars to 1 water). Best to feed liquid on the warm days and then have sugar feed on for the colder days. You can put sugar feed on and then feed liquid when the weatherman calls for a warm spell. Take the liquid off once the temperature drops again as the bees might not take it and a leaking container would be the end of the colony.

Did you know an inner cover has two sides? A shallow summer side that mainatins bee space and a deeper winter side that allows for fondant or sugar candy to be placed on the top bars available to the cluster. Here are some links to follow for making winter feed for your colonies. This first method requires cooking and I have used it with great success. To use it, follow this link. Something I've read is that the vinegar is essential to add in the heating process as it aids in breaking down the cane sugar into the sugars that are in honey, fructose and glucose as well as raising the acidity level closer to natural honey.

A second method requires no cooking. I have not used this recipe as yet but plan to this winter. To use it, follow this link. There is also information on this site for using the "Mountain Camp" method of feeding dry sugar. I prefer to make my feed in advance and then apply it to the hive but that's beekeeping, each of us has our own preference.




So you were able to harvest some honey but now what do you do with those frames? There are three things that can be done. 1-you could just leave the frames as they are and store them in a freezer or refrigerator. Not very practical for most folks and storing them wet in the garage or house is an invitation to disaster, don't do it! 2-you can let the bees dry them out outside of the hive. This works very well but you must take precautions to prevent a robbing frenzy in your apiary. Put the frames some distance from the hives, the farther the better, and additionally have some objects between, like trees or a building. This also pertains to letting the bees clean up your extracting equipment. There will be some damage to the comb but nothing too drastic. 3-lastly you can put the frames back into the hive they were harvested from or on another colony that may need the stores. If you just want the bees to dry the frames and move the residual honey down into the colony you can place the frames in a super above the inner cover. To keep the bees from moving up add a spacer or an empty super between the inner cover and the frames. Adding the frames back into or on top of a colony may also create a robbing situation if there are any gaps, cracks or openings. Take precautions!

Once dry these frames are a valuable resource and you HAVE to protect them until freezing weather arrives and wax moth activity ceases for the year. There are some choices that can be made here as well. Hanging under a eave allowing plenty of air and light can usually prevent wax moth damage if the combs never held brood or pollen. Follow this link to see some examples. Another way is to protect your frames with Para Dichlorobenzene, Moth crystals. Supers are stacked and sealed with a spacer at the top. Place the moth crystals on a paper plate on top in the space as the fumes will go down. Follow this link to read an article about wax moths and their control. Lastly combs can be protected with a natural microbial bacteria Bacillus thuringenisis (Certan®). It was once available for sale by bee supply companies but is no longer manufactured in the US but is available from Canada. Some beeks use alternative products that contain the same bacteria but are sold under a different name for the similar purpose of larva control. Here is a lnk to a video about the use of Certan.

Have you done your check for varroa mites? Now is a great time to do a sugar roll or alcohol wash to determine the percentage of mites within your colonies. Doesn't matter if you treat or not but to know your colonies health, it is important to monitor the varroa mite infestation level. Follow this link to learn how to do a sugar roll or this link to learn how to do an alcohol wash. Once you have your numbers then you can follow this link to determine a course of action. Just looking at your bees is not enough to know how they are coping with varroa. I just recently, with the help of a club member, did an alcohol wash on a colony that appeared to be in good shape. Weren't we both surprised when there were so many mites we had to dump them out on a rag to make an accurate count. 158 mites in 1/2 cup (300) of bees! Do I have a colony that is surviving with varroa or a colony that is on the brink of collapse? Without monitoring I wouldn't know why they perished or the importance of breeding this queen.




The summer dirth has started and foraging bees are all looking for stores to bring back to their home hive. Don't let your hive become a source of stores for a neighboring colony! Use a robbing screen if you have a small colony or are feeding to grow your colony. Products like Honey B Healthy or added essential oils can drive foraging bees wild. They want that stuff! Know that a honey bee colony's worst enemy is a stronger honey bee colony, fact.

For information on Robbing Screens check out these links:
1. Robbing Screen article on the CBA website
2. Images for different varieties of robbing screens
A few video links on making robbing screens. (Something to remember is if you use an entrance reducer the width doesn't need to exactly match the bottom board, example: an 8 frame robbing screen will work on a ten frame hive with an entrance reducer!).
1. Northwest New Jersey Beekeepers(NWNJBA)
2. Country Rubes Beekeeping Supplies
3. Another Country Rubes Video
A Google search brings up plenty more videos!
Robbing Screen Videos